Showing posts with label warsaw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label warsaw. Show all posts

Thursday, 15 December 2011

The anniversary of martial law in Poland, 13/12/11

"Martial law in Poland (Polish: Stan wojenny w Polsce, "the state of war") refers to the period of time from December 13, 1981 to July 22, 1983, when the authoritarian government of the People's Republic of Poland drastically restricted normal life by introducing martial law in an attempt to crush political opposition to it. Thousands of opposition activists were interned without charge and as many as 100 people were killed.  Although martial law was lifted in 1983, many of the political prisoners were not released until the general amnesty in 1986."  (From wikipedia).


Surely this is a time for calm reflection of the events, and to pay respects to those who were killed and tortured, no?



Thanks to Gazeta Wyborcza, we know that that everyone's favourite bunch of rabid xenophobic homophobes PiS held a march to commemorate the beginning of martial law.  "Tusk to Berlin!", they shouted.  As the article says, members of the march they also paid respect to the fascist anti-semite Roman Dmowski, as well as having a homophobic banner.  Jarosław Kaczyński said that the "Polish state is sick".  He agrees with me!?  Nah.  His accusations were more towards Tusk and the rest of the ruling party, PO.

Meanwhile, in Wrocław, another mild well-reflected group paid their own respects:


Yes, the people who attack Jews, deny the Shoah, honour a fascist (see photo above) and attack a Romany house in Łódż.  The NOP.

During their march they chanted "Communists will hang", thus demonstrating, for the hard of understanding, that they are fascists (wanting to kill your political opponents is a big clue.)  They walked from the Cathedral Island to the city centre.  As I said here, this kind of thing is an attempt to claim the public space.  Unfortunately there was no protest against the fascists.  I daresay, that they think that we are all Stalinists, that a counter-demo would need some police protection.  Again.  If we had been there, we would certainly have been, to quote Professor Andrzej Rychard, "left alone".

So, the rabid right claim the public space and narrative again, with no counter-voice.  That, as Andrzej Rychard said is because Polish civil society is weak.  What we need is for democrats to do their own events, to stop enabling fascists and other xenophobes to dominate the narrative and therefore take control of the space, and bring other people to their message.

Oh, by the way, I've discovered an excellent blog looking at such matters.  This article supports the thesis that there is no "left-wing extremism" and that we need to concentrate on Nazis.





Friday, 17 June 2011

Review: Sonisphere, Warsaw, 10th June 2011


As part of my series of features on cultural life in Poland here is my review of the concert last week in Warsaw, which brought the universe's finest as part of the Sonisphere festival.

Years ago I read in an article in The Observer magazine that heavy metal in Poland serves as a form of anti-MTVism (MTVism: The dumbing down of musical tastes to a bland corporate-dominated, music-by-numbers, universality-by-shiteness, style-over-content, singers-who-can't-sing-and-reliant-on-technology personified in the piss-poor prozac-lite primitive shite that is pop; though, sadly, rock is also used).  While I do hear a fair amount of the soul-sapping, mediocre- (OK, you get the message) that is pop made in Poland, there does appear to be a fair amount of Polish heavy metals bands.  I have to say, dear reader, that I don't know many of them; and those I do know I don't really like (with one exception) and I am reliant on you to tell me of them.

In any case, the health of heavy metal in a country is an indicator of the health of the people there, so let's look at the concert.

First up was Killing Joke.


I am a recent convert to Killing Joke.  They have been going since 1978 and due to the kindness of a Liverpool fan in Ireland I now possess all their albums.  They are a very interesting band, comprising of synthy-music to full-blown rock occasionally bordering on industrial metal.  I would call them legends, in fact.

Scandalously, they were only given half an hour to play.  Equally scandalously, most people who bought tickets for the concert didn't turn up to see them.  I would put the attendance (from the around 60,000 fans who bought tickets) at less than a thousand.  Despite this, they played with energy and Gaz (the singer) was on form, full of drive.

Before one song he spoke to the crowd, saying that he noticed that the President of the USA had been in Poland and because of this we shall have US troops in Poland.  'When WWIII starts it will start in Poland', he said.  He's an interesting one, that Gaz.

Then came The Devlin Townsend Project and after that, Volbeat.

I hadn't heard of either bands before this concert and I was annoyed that they and the next band were put on after Killing Joke and my research into them before the concert showed that I didn't like them and therefore I watched them only from afar.  The Devlin Townsend Project were the better of the two bands.  I would describe them as progressive-metal (with an emphasis on the progressive), kind of like Queensryche but with more headbangy moments and occasional WOOAGH vocals.  Devlin Townsend's frontman abilities were impressive, I found.

Volbeat started off with an energy that impressed me, but after a while I got bored with them and wandered off.  In the end their bland music annoyed me.  Only a brief cover of 'Raining Blood' by Slayer at the end got my head moving.

A better band was on the second stage afterwards, Leash Eye.  They're a band from Poland and quite decent, and their singer's got a good pair of lungs, as one says.  Check out them here.

Afterwards, the mighty Mastodon.


As soon as they came on stage they showed themselves to be a band with calibre.  The art of being onstage and coming across and naturally cool is a difficult one, but they managed it tremendously.  Standing there watching them was like hearing a juggernaut rolling towards me, a juggernaut however with complex melodies (OK, maybe that metaphor doesn't work too well) and outstanding musicianship.  It appeared that they didn't have many fans at the concert, but plenty heads were banging to their music; a sign that they have gained new fans.

Something that I appreciated were the shapes they made.  Heavy metals fans know what I mean; how they stand, how they move around the stage, how they play the guitar.  They looked, I have to say, as cool as fuck.

They were followed by Motörhead.

They need no introduction, proved by the fact that the tens of thousands of fans had finally appeared.  You don't need me to tell you that they're a classic band.  When they're on stage playing you know you're in for a party-time.  Despite hardly moving, Lemmy managed to exude charisma and inspire bopping and many bangs of the head.

Finally, Iron Maiden came on stage.



Iron Maiden and me go back a long time.  It was hearing 'The evil that men do' on the radio on 1988 that turned me to heavy metal, thus rejecting pop, sin, the world, the devil and all evil desires.  It's difficult to put words to just how good they are.  To see them ahead of you playing, say, 'The Trooper', seeing Steve Harris galloping across the stage stirring up the crowd, seeing the three amigos of Adrian Smith, Janick Gers and Dave Murray intertwining their melodies; with Nicko McBrain battering the drums  almost jazzstyle while Bruce Dickinson's air-raid siren vocals does their stuff; all this while you and everyone around you is jumping up and down belting out the words to the song......one can only say, 'This is how things should be'.

I find it incredible how a band who is only slightly younger than I am, having first released an album in 1980 are not only still playing well, but also producing the best music of their career.  Wine getting better with age is a metaphor often used with the Maiden; I would go beyond that, I would say that it's like the universe itself is becoming more intelligent, more diverse, more moving, more spiritual through the development of each new Iron Maiden album.

I mean, just look at the song list: Satellite 15...The Final Frontier, El Dorado, 2 Minutes to Midnight, The Talisman, Coming Home, Dance of Death, The Trooper, The Wicker Man, Blood Brothers, The Evil That Men Do, Fear of the Dark, Iron Maiden, The Number of the Beast, Hallowed Be Thy Name, Running Free. 

Every song there is a classic.

The highlights?  Well, during The Trooper there was BEDLAM in the crowd (I was right at the front of the crowd, but from the fact that there was a surge forward I can say that people behind were going mental as well).  The Talisman: FUCK, what a song!  New songs from old bands don't always inspire the kind of reaction that that song inspired.  Not a still head in the place.  Hallowed be they name: The BEST SONG OF ALL TIME, of course.  I am shaking my head at how good that song was.

'When the wind blows' was another highlight for me, all 11 minutes of it; another new song.  From the slow and quiet beginning to a jump-for-your-life riff via melodic interplays that inspire jealously even in Mr Melodious Lark who learned to sing and compose melody in the University of Melody and then, following sell-out concerts throughout the world became a Professor of Melody, teaching young larks the art of melody before dying and being known as the Bach of the lark world; together with lyrics and a tune that are eminently singable.

As well as a musical and spiritual experience, watching the Maiden is a visual experience.  A lot of effort is put into proving a show, and the stage-design, the stars behind the band, the backdrops and of course Eddie himself certainly give the eyes a lot to take in.



Right, enough about them.  What about the health of heavy metal in Poland?

The good

The crowd went mad for Motörhead and Iron Maiden.  Especially for the latter, people were signing throughout the whole concert.  People knew the songs well (which didn't happen last year even when Metallica played).  They were real fans.  I was able to stand/jump/mosh/headbang there in the knowledge that I was surrounded by people who love the Maiden, and there was no posing involved with that.  Respect to Iron Maiden fans in Poland!

The bad

Apart from potatoes all cooked food sold at the festival was meat.  Bastards.

Fuck's sake, Killing Joke are a classic band and hardly anyone turned up for them!  That's an embarrassment for Poland.  In fact, I have come to a conclusion about metal fans in Poland that I don't really like making: Poland is dominated by wools.

The word 'wool' comes from Liverpool and means a Liverpool FC fan who doesn't get  what it means to be a Liverpool fan; they sing songs that Liverpool fans don't sing, they hold views that show them to know nothing about Liverpool FC or its footballers, they are Liverpool fans in name only, but not culturally speaking.  I know this in Poland in Chelsea fans.  They walk through Wrocław wearing Chelsea tops being all enthusiastic about Chelsea, but sing songs that Chelsea fans who actually go to games don't sing; they know nothing about, say, the likes of Kerry Dixon or John Hollins, or even Peter Osgood.  They like Chelsea because they are a big and relatively successful team; they take the glory but haven't earned any of it.

In Poland I have met a lot of Polish people who say that they are big Chelsea, Arsenal, Man Utd or, sadly, Liverpool fans (man, once while watching Man Utd Howard Webbing their way to a win over us a load of Poles in Liverpool tops were chatting and laughing while the mancs were given a dodgy penalty and our captain was sent off); and also Barcelona.  They like them because they are big teams.

It is similar with metal.  Only the biggest bands were liked by the majority of the crowd.  Of course, bigger bands are liked by more people everywhere, but I have been to festivals in GB and the place was already full for the first band who came on at 3pm, and thousands were headbanging and moshing and singing already to the first band.  A performance by the same bands in other countries would certainly have more fans actually turning up.  Now, the concert took place on a working day, but even then, last year the Big Four performance took place on a Wednesday and even then thousands turned up to the first bands and reacted appropriately (though again, scandalously, thousands also only turned up for Metallica, thus missing the first time in history that the Big Four played).

It is difficult to escape the view that heavy metal in Poland is not a developed scene (not only with metal, I have heard of techno-'musicans' complaining about the lack of a good techno-scene in Poland).  Well, this is with regard to non-Polish heavy metal, anyway.  The Polish heavy metal bands who played that day on the second stage went down well.  Like with Polish football teams, there is a strong support for heavy metal bands from Poland.  Just that this support is not very broad.

The ugly

One goes to a concert to see a band and sing, dance, mosh, bang ones head, that kind of thing.  One doesn't go there to see someone blocking my view with their cameras.  One guy in front of me during Motörhead was very busy taking blurry photos of Lemmy and not once did he so much as raise a half-hearted fist to their music.  Fucking wool.

Don't take photos of bands.  They'll be shit photos and you're blocking the view of people behind you.

I also don't buy tickets in order to see the back of a girl sitting on her boyfriend.  Now, on various live videos you can see girls (and it is always girls) doing this and they are certainly proper metal fans, knowing the lyrics and all that.  Often, however, I get the impression that they don't actually know the songs and are pretending to be a big fan of the band.  You ever notice in videos that they are sitting there doing nothing but only raising a limp-hand to the air when they notice a camera is on them?

Flags are also a pain the arse.  Only saw one at Warsaw, a Ukrainian flag, that was greeted with a chant of 'Fuck off'.

Despite all this, my overwhelming impression of the concert was positive.  Not only due to the Maiden, but also due to the frenetic support given to them, and one more detail: More or less everyone around me was about 19 years old.  They knew all the words to the songs, including the old songs; songs I learned 23 years ago.

With such lads and lasses, the future of heavy metal in Poland could get a lot healthier.

Friday, 3 June 2011

Iron Maiden behind the Iron Curtain

The Friday treat

I know I have my regular readers; well next well you shall not receive a by now traditional Friday treat from me, as this time next week I shall be standing in a field at this


The main reason I shall be there will be to see the universe's finest (as far as we know): Iron Maiden.
Bear in mind, my Polish readers, that the 'r' in 'Iron' is silent, i.e. one says 'Ion Maiden'.

Not only shall I be fortunate in seeing the Maiden, but also Motörhead and Killing Joke, another two extremely good bands from Great Britain, as well as Mastodon, a NWOAHM band; as well as a few Polish bands I don't know (though rest assured that, following the death of Henryk Gorecki, the best music to currently come out of Poland is heavy metal).

So where's your treat?  Well, I am about to link it.  Please, though, imagine the scene: You are at a Polish wedding.  [Generally (with one very notable and joyous exception in Wrocław last year) the music at Polish weddings are dominated by what is known as 'Disco pola'.  With no exaggeration I tell you that 'Disco pola' is the worst thing to happen in Polish history.  I am not joking.  I have been to Polish weddings.]  You are expecting your will to live to vanish upon roughly the fifth hour of hearing the like of 'jaki taki taki, riki tiki tak' set to a drum machine and synthesiser.  Then who do you see on the stage ahead of you, but, no, it cannot be.  The best band of history, there, at a Polish wedding, playing some Deep Purple?

Oh yes.  Oh most deffo yes.



God be praised.

Now, this video is an excerpt from the film 'Iron Maiden behind the Iron Curtain'.  It a a short but very nice video showing the Maiden performing in Warsaw, in the "Folks' hall" (as it was then called) here in Wrocław as well as (presumably) Spodek in Katowice.  This film was made in 1984 (and most of it can be seen on youtube) on the 'World Slavery Tour' (following the release of the Powerslave album).

Not many western bands came behind the Iron Curtain at that time.  The Maiden managed it, and were happy with their reception by Polish people, even though they didn't correctly pronounce 'Iron' or 'Adrian' :)  At that time, as shown on the video, it was difficult and expensive to get hold of Iron Maiden albums in Poland and it was a time of great rejoicing in Poland when the Maiden came to Poland.

Perhaps I shall see some of you next Friday.

UP THE IRONS!*

* The band, not the football team.

Monday, 4 April 2011

Response to Timothy Garton Ash's article about Poland in The Guardian





The British newspaper ‘The Guardian’ is doing a week-long focus on Poland as part of its interest in ‘Europe’ (a term which in GB means continental Europe.) 
In the article ‘Poland: a country getting to grips with being normal at last’ Timothy Garton Ash, writes about his impressions of the changes in Polish society within the past twenty years and the possibilities how it may turn out.

I shall come to a few points he raises, but first I wish to note something.

He wrote the article in Warsaw.  Many of the comments on the page are by those who live in Warsaw or have been there.  Nothing wrong with that.  Most people know the capital city of any country better than the other towns.

In trying to understand Poland, however, one needs to know much more than the life in the capital city.  Some people (on the comments board) have noted the urban/rural divide in Poland.  That is true and others who live in rural areas can contribute much more about that.

What I can say more about is another aspect of Polish history.  A difficult one that still causes resentments across both sides of the Oder/Niesse border.  I mean, the forced transfer of ethnic Germans.  From Lower and Higher Silesia around 5.2 million ethnic Germans were forcefully repatriated to the newly defined Germany.  These were replaced by less than 2m Poles from the areas of former Poland that were now in the Ukraine and Lithuania.

The Poles who arrived in the former German city of Breslau, now named Wrocław, found a city in ruins following the Siege of Breslau where they suddenly had to make their homes.  



Many of the Poles who were deported to the 'Recovered Territories‘ (Lower and Upper Silesia as well as the former East Prussia, part of which was in the area which is now north of Poland) were used to a rural life and found themselves settling into buildings where Germans used to live, or were still living in.  That these 'recovered territories‘ hadn’t had ethnic Poles living in them as a majority for hundreds of years meant that those who were deported there didn’t treat the place as their home.  It was Stalin who had decreed that this area was now to be Poland (assented to by Churchill and Truman).  There are many stories I’ve heard of Poles not looking after the buildings in which they now lived in.  They believed that the Germans would come back, so saw no need in investing in the buildings.

That the Federation_of_Expellees occasionally agitate for compensation or even the return of houses and even territories to Germans causes all manner of worry for some Poles.  Of course, one should bear in mind that about 3m non-Jewish and 3m Jewish Poles died during WWII, and that both non-Jewish and Jewish Poles had themselves been deported during that time!

What you should understand is that, after the trauma of WWII, millions of Poles found themselves forced to live in a place they or their families had any contact with, sharing their communities with people they didn’t know; people from different social status‘ (from peasants to professors from L’wów).  A ‚home‘ it was not.  Some say that it took Vraclavians until 1997 to accept Wrocław as theirs, following the great flood of that year.

So, Poland is more than Warsaw.  It is home to inner-tensions which are more than about west and east, between capitialism and communism.  It is more than about tensions between urban and rural dwellers.  It is even more than about historical tensions with Germans, Russians or Ukrainians.

It has a tension with itself.  Like with the second republic, Poles had no say with the creation of their country (tell that to those who agitate the same point about certain areas in the middle east!)  People living in Poland (and bear in mind that German, Russian, Ukrainian, Lithuanian, Silesian, Kashubian and Mazurian minorities still exist here) found themselves put together in a new state.  Though not a national group, a massively reduced group of Jewish people; reduced of course due to the Shoah but also due to the state pogrom of 1968 ) may have shared suffering, but this suffering was different, and this suffering causes division (certainly, the passing of years and various initiatives have helped, but the division is still there).  A division which to some extent is brushed under the carpet of national mythology.  A division caused by the Polish civil war and also the establishment of communism.

'Who are we?‘  is the question which nations tend to ask.  Ash’s article shows that this question is still asked by people in Poland.  The 're-branding of Poland‘ as mentioned in the article came up with a new motto: 'Creative tension‘.

There is certainly enough tension in Poland!  Witness the reactions to the Smolensk tragedy, mentioned in the article.  I’ll quote Ash (hope he doesn’t mind!):

“There is the "normal" of contemporary Europe: the consumer society you see on the streets of central Warsaw and the TV screen. And there is the "normal" of most of modern Polish history: partition, occupation, unfreedom, ethnic conflict, economic distress, the blending of patriotism, romanticism and religion.”

Could this tension be creative in Poland?  Could such tension produce an outpouring of emotion which would then be cathartic?  Ash also uses the words ‘cognitive dissonance’.

Wikipedia defines cognitive dissonance as meaning "an uncomfortable feeling caused by holding conflicting ideas simultaneously. The theory of cognitive dissonance proposes that people have a motivational drive to reduce dissonance. They do this by changing their attitudes, beliefs, and actions.  Dissonance is also reduced by justifying, blaming, and denying."

There are organisations in Poland who try to speak about difficult historical events and enable the different sufferings suffered by different ethnic groups to be recognised by each other.  One such is Karta http://www.karta.org.pl/ (sadly, the site is only available in English).  They do many projects, which includes events whereby ethnic Germans visit the places they used to live in in what is now Poland, and talk with elderly Poles who live there now, Poles who were themselves deported from the east.  A wise man said that ‘reconciliation can happen when one recognises the suffering of the other’.  Karta enable that to happen.
The Edith Stein House  is another organisation that carries out projects based on bringing people from different cultures and backgrounds together.  In 2009 German Jewish people who left the old Breslau after the Nazi pogrom of 1938 came back to their former city for the first time ever and showed young Polish and German people around the places of their former childhood.  This was a very moving experience for all involved.
It is happening and I believe that many younger Poles (and indeed, older Poles) are wanting to move forward.  Young Poles I know are interested in working on tolerance and respect for the 'other'.  They are in fact very curious about 'the other'.  Other Brits or perhaps Americans as well will confirm this!  This 'other' creates, of course, a tension.  A tension which can indeed be creative.

Poland is much more than the tension between west and east.  Poland has a tension about the 'other', an 'other' that can include other Poles.  Organisations like Karta and the Edith Stein House show  that some Polish people are working together with people from other cultures to try to deal with that tension in a creative way, thus 'changing their attitudes, beliefs and actions'.

Not a bad benchmark for the EU, no?  Certainly, such a dealing of mass cognitive dissonance would be useful in Egypt.